The Food of Chiang Mai

Aside from the incredible people, weather, and scenery, the delectable food is one of the best reasons to visit Thailand.

Som Tum

DSC06793One of the most common and least expensive street foods in Thailand is also one of the most delicious and refreshing. Som tum is a dish with a base of shredded green, unripe papayas pounded in a mortar with lime juice, long beans (which look similar to green beans, but have a denser texture), roasted peanuts, dried shrimp, and various other fruits and seasonings. It has a surprisingly savory flavor and is filling for a nearly vegetarian salad.

Pad Krapow Kai

DSC06799This dish (pronounced pad ka-pow guy) can be as spicy or as mild as you want it to be, but we think the spicier the better. Thai holy basil is stir-fried with finely minced chicken or pork and spicy Thai chilies. It’s a pretty simple and excellent dish, particularly over rice and accompanied by a fried egg.

Phad Thai

DSC05883The most well known Thai dish in America, Phad Thai is common in Thai restaurants and street food stalls as well. A Chinese-influenced stir fry with rice noodles, peanuts, egg, tofu/other protein, tamarind and other spices, it’s a well rounded dish that’s a strong standby meal for any occasion.

Khao Soi

DSC04821A dish with Burmese influence, Khao Soi is a great northern Thai curry. It’s a complex soup with both boiled and crispy noodles, chicken (usually on the bone), swimming in a broth of thinner-than-usual coconut curry and served with optional toppings of chopped shallots, lime juice, and pickled cabbage.

Thai Fried Fish with Chili Sauce

DSC05582A whole fish, breaded and deep fried, served with vegetables or a salad and incredibly spicy chili-lime and cilantro sauce. Filling, bony, delicious.

Fried Quail Egg Dumpling

DSC06044              We didn’t run into this tasty treat many places, but we were sure to get them whenever we spotted them. Hard boiled quail eggs are wrapped in a thin dough, then deep fried and served with a sweet Thai chili sauce.

Red Curry with King Prawns

DSC04169Spicy red Thai curry with king prawns, eggplants, and other veggies. An excellent curry seems to be one of the main dishes to separate a great restaurant from a mediocre one. This was an excellent curry and a great restaurant: Nest 2 in Chiang Dao

Panang Curry

DSC06762Another superb coconut milk-based curry, flavored with kaffir lime leaves, galangal, lemongrass and chilies. Our favorite version had plenty of vegetables and tiny bitter eggplant for an extra kick.

Pork Noodle Soup

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Our favorite lunch for the past several weeks, this soup is a simple but scrumptious meal. Rice noodles, bean sprouts, and cabbage are briefly boiled, then topped with pork balls, a meaty pork bone, and slices of pork loin in a flavorful pork-based broth. It’s finished off with bits of deep fried pork fat and garlic, and crunchy wontons.

Favorite Fruit Shake

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We realize these might not look like anything special to the casual observer. But the casual observer would be wrong. There are an abundance of fruit shakes in Chiang Mai, with every ingredient available: pineapples, strawberries, passion fruit, dragon fruit, oranges, apples, carrots… The list goes on. Our favorite fruit shake is made with ripe avocado, juicy mango, and fragrant banana, with ice, honey, and sweetened condensed milk for good measure. The avocado may sound like a strange addition at first, but ripe avocado is so creamy, and that’s what puts this fruit shake over the top. Here’s our shake-barista from Kalare Night Bazaar food market, hers is the stall to look for:

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Thai Fried Bananas

DSC06279Another street food dish, these taste like a banana inside of a donut. It’s not just breading, but a thick, spongy sesame seed batter that coats these bananas. Sweet and frighteningly good.

Crema Latte

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While lattes are not particularly Thai, this one was too delicious not to share. Crema Café has become one of our favorite spots to relax, thanks to their delicious coffee, friendly owners, and serene setting. The lattes we had there were some of the best-made coffee we’ve had in Thailand, and our only complaint is that we finished them too quickly!

Well, there you have it: our favorite local Chiang Mai dishes to cap off our time in this wonderful city. We’ve had the most enjoyable time living in Thailand, but we head off tomorrow on a train to Bangkok to our next destination of Indonesia. Can’t wait to see what excitement this change will bring!

 

New Year’s Eve – Ladyboys and Fireworks

To celebrate New Year’s Eve, we decided to check out the local ladyboy cabaret!

Ladyboy with a split personality

Ladyboy with a split personality

The dancers were extremely enthusiastic

The dancers were extremely enthusiastic

The show consisted of elaborately costumed performers lip synching and dancing to a wide variety of songs ranging from old standards to disco hits.

Dramatic closeup

Dramatic closeup

The cabaret was a unique and decidedly Thai experience

The ladyboy cabaret was a unique and decidedly Thai experience

The Thai name for ladyboy is kathoey (highly recommended read), and ladyboy cabarets are a celebration of this gender which is commonly accepted in Thailand.

Since the cabaret wrapped up a few minutes before midnight, we headed to the moat to take part in the city-wide party, complete with constant fireworks and sky lanterns.

Our view of the fireworks and lanterns on the moat surrounding the old city

Our view of the fireworks and lanterns on the moat surrounding the old city

Floating lanterns are popular for pretty much any holiday

Floating lanterns are popular for pretty much any holiday

Some of the lanterns have fireworks or flares attached

Some of the lanterns have fireworks or flares attached

It was an absolutely wonderful way to bring in 2014. Happy New Year!

Chiang Mai Sunset

A temple with a glimpse of the mountains in the distance

A temple with a glimpse of the mountains in the distance

A few days ago, we decided to try and find a vintage clothing shop in Chiang Mai’s old city around sunset. We didn’t have much luck finding the shop at first, but it did give us a great chance to explore Chiang Mai and play around with the HDR setting on our camera. It was a particularly lovely evening, and we had a great time saying “sawasdeeka/p” to everyone we saw. The more we see of Chiang Mai, the more we find to like about it. We’ve never been to a city that is so friendly, and where complete strangers constantly greet and smile at one another. It’s remarkably refreshing. The gorgeous weather and delicious food don’t hurt either, of course.

Extremely friendly and talkative Thai men. They said that Jeff looked like Keanu Reeves.

Extremely friendly and talkative Thai men. They said that Jeff looked like Keanu Reeves.

We said hello to these guys as we passed them eating their dinner together, and since they happened to speak English, we struck up a conversation. They were interested to learn that we’re spending two months in Chiang Mai, and gave us the advice to “take it slow.” We told them we agreed, and they decided that Jeff looked like a movie star, but couldn’t remember his name. Jeff finally figured it out when they pantomimed Keanu Reeves’ bullet-dodging scene from The Matrix, complete with sound effects.

The moon and a palm tree and a few wispy clouds

The moon and a palm tree and a few wispy clouds

As the evening turned to nightfall, we saw the moon through the clouds and glimpsed a lone star beneath a palm tree. We also gave up on finding the vintage shop we’d initially set out to find, and took a little break on a bench to decide where to head next. We had just settled on heading to dinner and turned a corner to find the very shop we were searching for. It seems that in order to find somewhere in Chiang Mai, it’s best not to have your heart too set on it, and only then will it appear! Even if we hadn’t found the shop, the evening would have been well worth it nonetheless. Chiang Mai is a wonderful city full of cheerful people taking it slow…it’s an attitude that’s rubbing off on us, and we’re definitely the happier for it.

Loi Krathong

This past weekend we attended the Loi Krathong and Yi Peng festival held at Maejo University on the outskirts of Chiang Mai. It’s an annual multi day festival during the full moon of the 12th Thai month, usually falling in late November. The lantern liftoff was absolutely breathtaking. It was mesmerizing to watch thousands of lanterns float up into the sky and swirl together and away into the breeze, like watching a galaxy form in fast forward. The pictures barely do it justice.

 

A lot of Thai

Back from radio silence, guys! We spent the last few days adjusting to the time difference, taking the BEST Thai cooking class, and finding our new apartment (so cozy). Apartment details next time, but for now here’s a gallery of our cooking class with Yui, the teacher for A lot of Thai home cooking class. She’s been cooking and teaching for 14 years, and was so frank and fun to spend the day with. We improved our knife skills, took a tour of the local market, and ate waaay too much. Take a look!

Us and Yui

Us and Yui

Mango Sticky Rice

Mango Sticky Rice

Jane's spring rolls

Jane’s spring rolls

Jane's spring rolls

Jeff rolling spring rolls

The street outside Nong Hoi Market

The street outside Nong Hoi Market

Eggplants that actually look like eggs!

Eggplants that actually look like eggs!

Phad Thai - delicious in two minutes on the wok

Phad Thai – delicious in two minutes on the wok

Assorted Greens

Assorted Greens – including edible mimosa leaves

Tamarind

Tamarind

Dragonfruit and other produce at Nong Hoi Market

Dragonfruit, bananas, oranges and grapes for sale at Nong Hoi Market

Delicious Iced Coffee from Nong Hoi market

Delicious iced coffee being prepared

Sippin on that iced coffee

Sippin on that iced coffee

Nong Hoi Market

Nong Hoi Market

The stations at A Lot of Thai cooking class

The stations at A lot of Thai cooking class

Thai Red Curry

Thai Red Curry

Thai Green Curry

Thai Green Curry

Yui demonstrating cooking form

Yui demonstrating cooking form

Eating Phad Thai

Eating Phad Thai